Before I had gone a step of the way

"Before I had gone a step of the way, I no longer saw a place in the land: Neither birchclad cliff, nor coast; Neither hill's-breast, mountain-side, nor sea."

Then it is he turns in his humorous rage:

"Och! confound thee, great yellow thing, That neither turns lighter, nor clears a bit; Black-grey chasuble of the air; An endless woven clout, thou art!"